By , March 11, 2012 4:00 pm

Spending a little over a year saving up cash and selling everything we own before this trip taught us several lessons. One of the most important was the value of money, and the rate that its value diminishes when you buy new things. We sold a tonne of stuff before we left home, much of it lightly used, and all of it at prices far lower than we paid for it. To say it was depressing would be an understatement.

We also learned that there is a thriving used goods market back home. Between garage sales, free online classified ads, and eBay you can pretty much find anything you need without paying full price if you have a little patience. Before we left home, we both vowed two things: 1) Never to buy new if we could find what we wanted used, and 2) Never buy more stuff than we absolutely need. Nice to haves are just not worth the money they cost, especially when all they do is collect dust.

Now, Central America has taught me a new lesson. You can fix pretty much everything. There’s no need to throw something out just because it’s old and broken. In pretty much every Central American city, you can find people out on the street who will fix whatever needs fixing at very reasonable prices. Between Granada and León, I tested their skill on several items.

First, my watch strap had started to come apart. This is a classic Timex Ironman watch that Ashley purchased way back in the 20th century. Back home, I probably would have considered a watch that lasted me more than 10 years a good deal, tossed it out, and bought a new one. But we just bought a new watch in Utila (a time piece is required for diving) and it cost $23 dollars. That’s a lot of money in Central America.  So what did it cost me to fix the watch strap and put a new battery in? Only about $5, and it’ll probably last another decade.

Shiny New Watch Strap – Decade Old Watch

The next things to go were my shoes. They are a little over a year old, and have plenty of tread left. Unfortunately, all of our volcano hiking has done a number on them, and the soles were separating from the tops. They looked like they were talking. I was lucky enough to notice a sign in the market of Granada for shoe repairs. Behind the sign sat a gentleman with some thread, a screwdriver, and a sewing machine. He took a quick look, then for a mere $2 sewed them back up right as rain. Even used, it’s hard to find a good pair of shoes for $2, and these ones are already broken in.

My Sewn Up Shoes- Good as New

And the Man Who Fixed ´Em

I needed one more repair before I left Granada. One of the screws that hold my glasses together had rusted through and snapped. My right lens fell out, and there was no way for me to remove or replace the screw with the tools I had. A quick trip to a jewellery store, to make use of a tiny drill press and another to an optical store, and my glasses were good as new for the low low price of $1.50. Actually, I´m lying a bit, they are not quite as good as new because I dropped my lens on the street while walking to the jewellery store and a small chunk of glass chipped out. But they will serve for another year at least.

Broken Glasses- Soon to be Fixed

All in all, I fixed my watch, a pair of shoes, and my glasses for about $8.50. Back home, I would have tossed everything out and spent at least $200 replacing them. Sure, I’ll still need to replace them at some point, but probably not this year. My world just got a whole lot less disposable.

By , March 9, 2012 8:38 pm

Before we ever left home, my mom and her boyfriend, Terry, told us they were planning to meet up with us for the month of February.  They had already booked the vacation time and were anxiously waiting to find out what their destination would be.  You see, they were willing to be super flexible and show up wherever we were at the time.  The problem with that, as anyone following our journey probably knows, is that we typically don’t know where we’ll be in a week, never mind a year.  We originally told them it would probably be Chile and Argentina.  Then we said Peru or Ecuador.  Then Panama.  Finally, as we were still in Utila, we settled on Nicaragua.  (Even with this plan, we ended up skipping the rest of Honduras and El Salvador to meet up with them on time, so we are currently backtracking a bit to see some of what we blew by).

As the date got closer and closer, I was more and more excited to see my mom.  Seven months of Skype conversations over sketchy internet connections are no replacement for seeing a loved one in person.  I expected that we would have an amazing month together.  And we did. But not without a little drama.

First night with my mom in Managua

You see, the truth about travelling with mom and Terry is that we simply have different travel styles.  While we are budget backpackers out to get great value for our money and willing to sacrifice a few creature comforts to save a buck, they would rather fork over a little more cash for some “necessary” items.  We are looking to immerse ourselves in the culture and food of smaller communities a little off the beaten track.  They are looking for – as Terry put it – a beach with a 7/11 around the corner.  And so be it.  This was their vacation too, and we wanted them to enjoy every minute of it.  We never expected them to travel like we did.  But we also coudn’t just sacrifice a month of our budget for their comfort.

Trying to make a plan that suits everyone

So we compromised.  Where possible, we tried to find accommodations which would fit everyone’s needs (typically dorm rooms for Mike and I and a private ensuite room for Mom and Terry).  When this wasn’t possible, we stayed in separate places, trying to keep them as close together as possible.

For food, we had one to two meals together a day and the others apart.   Mom has kidney disease and can’t eat much salt and Terry doesn’t like onions, peppers, or really much for veggies.  This made finding suitable restaurants difficult at times.  They wanted a lot of burgers and fries.  We stuck to local set plates and street food.  They went to Subway a few times.  We didn’t, having vowed never to eat at a multi-national North American chain outside of North America.  Terry liked meat and potatoes.  We tried to limit our meat consumption to one meal every day or two.

Our kind of lunch!

It’s hard to travel with a group.  As a couple, Mike and I have pretty much figured each other’s preferences out (and, thankfully, they’re remarkably similar), but it still becomes difficult to compromise day in and day out.  We share one plate for most of meals out, which makes every meal a compromise.  Just trying to decide what to order can be a challenge after eating out a few days in a row, nevermind deciding where to go next, how long to stay, and what to do when we get there.

Mike, Mom and Terry

Throw in another couple with different travel preferences and you’ve got a challenging situation. Communication is key.  We struggled with communication at the beginning… for example, Mom and Terry told us they all they needed for accommodations was a private room.  A private bathroom would be nice.  After a while, we realized that they actually wanted a private room with a private bathroom, at least a fan, and windows with good light; hot water and air conditioning strongly preferred, and a television would be nice.  There’s nothing wrong with this list, but knowing it from the start would have made searching for hostels/hotels a lot easier in the beginning.

Not exactly the type of place Mom & Terry wanted to stay at.  But at only $12 a night for a private room with wifi in San Juan del Sur, we couldn’t pass it up!

In the end, it was absolutely worth every challenge we had just to have my mom around.  I loved being able to sit down to breakfast with her, chat about things going on in our lives, share the experience of exploring new cities and foods (one of their favourite foods in the end was fried yucca in Granada), and playing cards while chatting the evenings away.  They treated us with a couple of meals that were beyond our price range and we were able to cook one of our favourite splurge meals of spaghetti bacon carbonara (complete with red wine) for them.  It was sort of a cheer-them-up after they were robbed at the beach (more on this later).  They were great sports about some of “challenges” of backpacking through Central America… I got to see my mom ride in a chicken bus with standing room only, complete with a chicken!

Mom and Terry treated us to an early 5th Anniversary dinner

Mom… I know you are reading this.   I love you and miss you and can’t wait for our next adventure together! I’m so proud of everything you tried and opened yourself up to on our trip (I still can’t believe you went ziplining with us.. awesome!). Enjoy every minute of every day and I’ll see you soon on Skype! And please wipe those tears away… we’ll be together again before you know it! (I wonder where?)

My mom

By , March 7, 2012 4:00 pm

Las Peñitas is one of two beaches located just 20-40 minutes outside of León by chicken bus (if you´ve ever been on a chicken bus, you’ll understand the time variance). I’d have to say that this was the closest thing to an all-inclusive resort that we’ve seen since Cancun, Mexico. The soft black sand beach is rimmed by a lengthy line of hotels, hostels, B&B’s, and restaurants. There’s just one street running on the opposite side of the beach, and no town to speak of.

It’s not really an all-inclusive resort, of course, as it only cost us $6 USD per person per night, including no meals nor drinks. But without a town, you’ll find that you eat all your meals in restaurants, and you’ll probably spend most of your days lazing on the beach, so what’s the real difference?

The swimming is alright, with a low sloping soft sand beach, and gentle waves continuously rolling in off the Pacific. We stayed two nights, relaxing after our all nighter volcano hike. Each night the sunsets at the beach gave us a beautiful view. We hope you enjoy it too!

By , March 5, 2012 4:00 pm

Welcome to the zombie march! If you don’t know why we call it that, you soon will!

Sometimes the best moments of a journey come from being in the right place at the right time…

We arrived in León, Nicaragua with little plan of what to do. We had just met up with my mom in Managua, and León was the first city on our agenda. She wanted to travel like we do, which for us often means arriving in a city and letting it tell us what sights to see once we get there. We knew we had to check out the Cathedral de León, a UNESCO world heritage sight. As we sat down on the sidewalk outside the cathedral to contemplate our next move, we ran into a couple that we had dove with in Utila. They told us all about a full moon lava-viewing volcano hike they were doing the next night with one of our favourite Central American organizations, Quetzaltrekkers (we had hiked with them before in Xela, Guatemala and were already planning to check out what they had to offer in León).

This sounded too cool to pass up, so we ran over to Quetzaltrekkers to sign ourselves up. At this point, we still didn’t even know the name of the volcano (Volcan Telica, as we later found out) and didn’t care. We paid our $30 USD each (normally $35, but there is a discount if you’ve hiked with them before) for guides, return transportation, supper, midnight lunch, breakfast, snacks, and water; and headed back to the cathedral to check out the almost-full moon.

Almost-full moon through the window of the Cathedral

The next night, after a full day of walking and museums, we met with our guides and sixteen other full moon hikers at Quetzaltrekkers at about 9:30 pm. We sat down for a huge meal of spaghetti, rice, and vegetarian tomato sauce and after a quick ride in the back of a pickup, we arrived at the the trailhead.

The start of the hike

We started hiking at 11:30 pm. The trail was fairly easy and flat, though there were lots of loose stones to deal with. The full moon was often obscured by clouds, so we relied on our headlamps a lot.

Full moon

Near the end of the hike, the trail started getting quite a bit steeper. The guides wanted to keep the group together, so there were lots of breaks and it was an easy ascent.

Full moon over Volcan Telica

At about 4:00 am, we reached the summit of the volcano. We dropped off our gear at a camping spot, and spent 15 more minutes walking to the crater’s edge. As we approached the crater, wafts of sulfur invaded our nostrils. It made our eyes water and our throats burn, but there was nothing stopping anyone from crawling up to the edge to see the glowing lava.

Lava!!!

I don’t think I could find the right words to truly describe how incredible it was to see and hear the lava, and our pictures definitely don’t do it justice. We could hear it roaring below us and the pools brightened and darkened as the lava moved and cooled. It was seriously one of the coolest things I’ve ever experienced.

We didn’t stay long at the lava. Despite it’s awesomeness, the chemist in me knew that the burning in my eyes, throat, and chest was from the sulfur dioxide in the air reacting with the water in my lungs and throat to create highly acidic hydrogen sulfide. Not wanting to subject my body to these conditions for long, we took in the sights and sounds and returned to camp for a “midnight” lunch.

As we sat finishing our lunch of cream cheese and veggie sandwiches, with the guides working hard to keep people from nodding off, the sky began to brighten. We climbed up one last hill to watch the sun rise over several volcanoes in the distance. The view kept getting more and more spectacular and, despite the fact that most of the hikers around me were complaining about being tired and cold and wanting to get back, I felt re-energized. This was the first time I have ever just watched a sun rise in its entirety and it was beautiful.

Sun rise

We watched the sun until it was completely up (the camera battery died at the start of the sun rise, which allowed us to watch it away from the viewfinder) , turning around every once in a while to watch the full moon set over the volcano behind us.

Full moon setting behind us over Volcan Telica

We hiked back to the entrance and, looking around me, I understood the zombie march reference. A lot of hikers looked like they were having a hard time staying upright, but as I said, I was invigorated from all that I just experienced and really enjoyed the early morning hike. We returned to the starting point at about 9:30 am, and were back in León celebrating our experiences with a tasty breakfast of yogurt, fruit, and granola by 10:00.

By , March 3, 2012 6:59 pm

Summing up our time in Honduras is fairly easy… we spent three and a half months in Utila, Honduras (and the neighbouring Jewel Cay).  The only other cities we visited (La Ceiba and San Pedro Sula) were required stays to get in and out of Utila.

Honduras Statistics:

Length of Stay: 107 days
Average Cost per Day for Two People including ALL of our scuba diving courses: $52.97 CAD
Average Cost per Day for Two People NOT including scuba diving:  $25.28 CAD
Cities/Towns Visited: 5
Distance Traveled: 997 km  in 3 automobiles and 18 boats
Days Sick:  4 for Ashley, 0 for Mike
Number of Items Lost: 0
Biggest Tourist Traps: none
Exchange Rate: $1 CAD = 19 lempiras

For more great travel statistics, check out our stats page!

Good bye Jewel Cay!

Our Route:

Puerto Cortes – La Ceiba – Utila/Jewel Cay/Little Cay – La Ceiba – San Pedro Sula – Nicaraguan border (through Tegucigulpa)

Our Honduras Route

Highlights:

  • DIVING!!!  We came for a week and stayed for three and a half months, need I say more?
  • The people.   Staying in one place for three and a half months really allowed us to get to know some fabulous people that we now miss dearly.
  • Swimming with Whale Sharks
  • The abundance of cheap and delicious baked goods on Jewel and Pigeon Cays.
  • Having a place to call home (with an oven!!!)

Great friends and good baking!

Lowlights:

  • Getting fat from the abundance of cheap baked goods.
  • The principle language on Utila is English.  Which, incidentally, is not the best way to cement in your mind the six weeks of Spanish lessons you just took.
  • Living on the tiny island of Jewel Cay meant that our muscles forgot how to walk.
  • The safety factor.  Honduras is the most dangerous country in Central America and San Pedro Sula is the violence capital of the world.  We didn’t experience much of this since we were on the tiny island of Utila, rather than mainland Honduras.  We did, however, feel that our personal safety was threatened for the first time in over seven months of travel on a bus from La Ceiba to San Pedro Sula.  There was a very drunk (likely more than drunk) man sitting across the aisle from us who told us, through a combination of Spanish and English, that a lot of people die all the time in Honduras.  Luckily for us, he said, we were gringos and he likes gringos so he wouldn’t kill us.  In fact, we were his brother and sister, so we should blow off our prearranged transport to our hostel and go home with him.  He refused to take no for an answer, and just kept yelling louder and louder.  After about an hour and a half of this, and several complaints to the driver from other passengers, security settled him down at one of the bus stops.  Happily, they forced him off the bus on the outskirts of San Pedro Sula, before the terminal we would exit at.

A wonderland created with glass at Treetanic Bar in Utila, Honduras

Surprises:

  • I think we always expected that we’d like diving, but we had no idea how quickly we fall completely in love with it.
  • Even though we loved what we had to do each day, we were surprised by how difficult it was to wake to an alarm each morning.  It didn’t seem to matter that it was diving, or that the alarm was going off the same time we had been waking up for most of the trip… having to get up at a set time is exhausting.
  • All the expensive toys we bought ourselves for Christmas… after being hard-core budgeters for so long, we spent a small fortune on a second laptop (turns out we don’t share well), a dive computer, and an underwater camera enclosure.

I got to experience a tarantula in my mouth in Tikal, so Mike wanted to one-up me in Utila

Lessons Learned:

  • You can make anywhere home.
  • The quiet, laid-back vibe is the right vibe for us.

Honduras Journal – Where Did We Spend Our Time?

La Ceiba – 2 nights
What we did here:  Nada.  We waited for the ferry to Utila to start running again (bad weather kept it from going).  It was pouring rain so we mostly just hung out in our hostel.

Utila – 16 nights
What we did here:  We researched dive shops, and killed some time until Talon (from 1 Dad, 1 Kid) was free to teach us our first courses.  We hiked to a crashed drug plane.  And we also crashed at a few friend’s houses here (thanks Lisa, Shell, and Talon!).

Jewel Cay – 86 nights
What we did here:  Dive, dive, and dive.  We also managed the dive shop’s hotel in conjunction with another DMT for about a month and half.  And don’t forget swimming with whale sharks!!!

Little Cay – 1 night
What we did here:  What better way to say goodbye and celebrate our completion of the divemaster program than to rent a private island with our best buds? (Complete with a shore dive, of course)

San Pedro Sula – 2 nights
What we did here: Waited for a spot to open up on the Tica bus to Nicaragua.  Met Carlo & Geneva from the TravelBudgetCouple at our hostel and joined them for some Hondurian Chinese food and reverse culture shock at the city mall.

We miss you Miss Kary!

Sunset on Little Cay

If you want to check out some of our Honduras photos, check out our photo gallery.

By , March 1, 2012 8:45 am

Coral

Bluebell Tunicates

Mooring Line

Coral

Pilot Whale Skeleton

Divers at Halliburton Wreck

Coral

Great view

Bike at the Wreck

Sand

Coral

Coral

Divers at the wreck

By , February 28, 2012 8:48 pm

Butterflyfish

Horse-eye Jacks & Barracuda

Burrfish

Flamingo Tongue

Hermit Crab

Coral

Lizardfish

Banded Coral Shrimp

Green Moray Eel

Feather Dusters

Sea Urchin